Materiel know-how
{Barbora Budzakova}
Bourette yarn
Bourette (or knop) yarns are folded yarns containing short, often coloured bunches of fibres or yarn at regular or irregular intervals. The knops may be formed during carding, during spinning, or during folding. Fabrics have a structured surface. The knots are threads of another color.
Bourette - A lightweight, rough.faced dress fabric made of bourette yarn in either a twill or plain weave.
Bourette yarns are of various fibers having unevenly spaced nubs or knots, also fabric with uneven surface woven from such yarn. Originally, method of weaving in which loops were thrown to surface cloth.
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Clothing Technology
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The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles
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A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern
BOURETTE
PRODUCTION
ABOUT
Bourrette is a light weight, single cloth fabric, weighing from 4% to 6 ounces, composed of two-ply cotton warp, and either wool, merino or a combination of cotton and wool shoddy Ailing. Both the warp and the filling have an occasional end or pick of fancy bourrette or nub yarn added for effect; hence the name. In appearance bourrette cloth is a semi-rough-faced woolen fabric, having small fancy colored lumps on the yarn, scattered throughout, the goods in accordance with the effect desired. The cloth when finished is used principally in the manufacture of ladies' fall suitings.
The bourrette yarn is made by twisting two cotton threads and a worsted thread together, the worsted being allowed to deliver more quickly than the cotton threads, at regular intervals. The excess which is delivered is twisted around the cotton threads in the one place, thereby forming a lump on the twisted yarn, as the worsted yarn is run at a varied speed, and is not regularly distributed around the cotton threads.
USE
Bourette yarns are widely used in both woollen and worsted suitings, upholstery, soft furnishings, munitions bags and dish cloths (silk can absorb up to one third of its own weight of water without feeling wet, though price tends to limit its use in this direction nowadays). Bourette is a strong mulberry silk yarn suitable for a large number of apparel uses. It contains the natural chrysalis and vegetable particles which are a characteristic of this yarn.